ATX Casings

Computer Form Factor

Overview of form factors

A PC motherboard is the main circuit board within a typical desktop computer, laptop or server. Its main functions are as follows:

to serve as a central backbone to which all other modular parts such as CPU, RAM, and hard drives can be attached as required to create a modern computer;

to accept (on many motherboards) different components (in particular CPU and expansion cards) for the purposes of customization;

to distribute power to PC components;

to electronically co-ordinate and interface the operation of the components.

As new generations of components have been developed, the standards of motherboards have changed too; for example, with AGP being introduced, and more recently PCI Express. However, the standardized size and layout of motherboard have changed much more slowly, and are controlled by their own standards. The list of components a motherboard must include changes far more slowly than the components themselves. For example, north bridge controllers have changed many times since their introduction, with many manufacturers bringing out their own versions, but in terms of form factor standards, the requirement to allow for a north bridge has remained fairly static for many years.

Although it is a slower process, form factors do evolve regularly in response to changing demands. The original PC standard (AT) was superseded in 1995 by the current industry standard ATX, which still dictates the size and design of the motherboard in most modern PCs. The latest update to the ATX standard was released in 2004. A divergent standard by chipset manufacturer VIA called EPIA (also known as ITX, and not to be confused with EPIC) is based upon smaller form factors and its own standards.

Differences between form factors are most apparent in terms of their intended market sector, and involve variations in size, design compromises and typical features. Most modern computers have very similar requirements, so form factor differences tend to be based upon subsets and supersets of these. For example, a desktop computer may require more sockets for maximal flexibility and many optional connectors and other features on-board, whereas a computer to be used in a multimedia system may need to be optimized for heat and size, with additional plug-in cards being less common. The smallest motherboards may sacrifice CPU flexibility in favor of a fixed manufacturer’s choice.

Comparisons

Tabular information

Form factor

Originated

Max. size

Typical feature-set

(compared to ATX)

Typical CPU

flexibility

Power handling

Notes

(typical usage, Market adoption, etc)

XT

IBM 1983

8.5  11 in

216  279 mm

Obsolete, see Industry Standard Architecture. The IBM Personal Computer XT was the successor to the original IBM PC, its first home computer. As the specifications were open, many clone motherboards were produced and it became a de facto standard.

AT (Advanced Technology)

IBM 1984

12  1113 in

305  279330 mm

Obsolete, see Industry Standard Architecture. Created by IBM for the IBM Personal Computer/AT, an Intel 80286 machine. Also known as Full AT, it was popular during the era of the Intel 80386 microprocessor. Superseded by ATX.

Baby-AT

IBM 1985

8.5  1013 in

216  254330 mm

IBM’s 1985 successor to the AT motherboard. Functionally equivalent to the AT, it became popular due to its significantly smaller size.

ATX

Intel 1996

12  9.6 in

305  244 mm

Created by Intel in 1995. As of 2007[update], it is the most popular form factor for commodity motherboards. Typical size is 9.6  12 in although some companies extend that to 10  12 in.

SSI CEB

SSI

12  10.5 in

305  267 mm

Created by the Server System Infrastructure (SSI) forum. Derived from the EEB and ATX specifications. This means that SSI CEB motherboards have the same mounting holes and the same IO connector area as ATX motherboards.

microATX

1996

9.6  9.6 in

244  244 mm

A smaller variant of the ATX form factor (about 25% shorter). Compatible with most ATX cases, but has fewer slots than ATX, for a smaller power supply unit. Very popular for desktop and small form factor computers as of 2007[update].

Mini-ATX

AOpen 2005

5.9  5.9 in

150  150 mm

Mini-ATX is slightly smaller than Mini-ITX. Mini-ATX motherboards were design with MoDT (Mobile on Desktop Technology) which adapt mobile CPU for lower power requirement, less heat generation and better application capability.

FlexATX

Intel 1999

9.0  7.5 in

228.6  190.5 mm max.

A subset of microATX developed by Intel in 1999. Allows more flexible motherboard design, component positioning and shape. Can be smaller than regular microATX.

Mini-ITX

VIA 2001

6.7  6.7 in

170  170 mm max.

A small, highly-integrated form factor, designed for small devices such as thin clients and set-top boxes.

Nano-ITX

VIA 2003

4.7  4.7 in

120  120 mm

Targeted at smart digital entertainment devices such as PVRs, set-top boxes, media centers and Car PCs, and thin devices.

Pico-ITX

VIA 2007

100  72 mm max.

Mobile-ITX

VIA 2007

2.953  1.772 in

75  45 mm

BTX (Balanced Technology Extended)

Intel 2004

12.8  10.5 in

325  267 mm max.

A standard proposed by Intel as a successor to ATX in the early 2000s, according to Intel the layout has better cooling. BTX Boards are flipped in comparison to ATX Boards, so a BTX or MicroBTX Board needs a BTX case, while an ATX style board fits in an ATX case.

MicroBTX (or uBTX)

Intel 2004

10.4  10.5 in

264  267 mm max.

PicoBTX

Intel 2004

8.0  10.5 in

203  267 mm max.

DTX

AMD 2007

200  244 mm max.

Mini-DTX

AMD 2007

200  170 mm max.

smartModule

Digital-Logic

66  85 mm

Used in embedded systems and single board computers. Requires a baseboard.

ETX

Kontron

95  114 mm

Used in embedded systems and single board computers. Requires a baseboard.

nanoETXexpress

Kontron

55  84 mm

Used in embedded systems and single board computers. Requires a carrier board. Also known as Nano COM Express Type 1

Extended ATX (EATX)

Unknown

12  13 in

305  330 mm

Used in rackmount server systems. Typically used for server-class type motherboards with dual processors and too much circuitry for a standard ATX motherboard. The mounting hole pattern for the upper portion of the board matches ATX.

LPX

Unknown

9  1113 in

229  279330 mm

Based on a design by Western Digital, it allowed smaller cases than the AT standard, by putting the expansion card slots on a Riser card. Used in slimline retail PCs. LPX was never standardized and generally only used by large OEMs.

Mini-LPX

Unknown

89  1011 in

203229  254279 mm

Used in slimline retail PCs.

PC/104

PC/104 Consortium 1992

3.8  3.6 in

Used in embedded systems

AT Bus architecture adapted to vibration-tolerant header connectors.

PC104plus

PC/104 Consortium 1997

3.8  3.6 in

Used in embedded systems.

PCI Bus architecture adapted to vibration-tolerant header connectors.

PCI/104Express

PC/104 Consortium 2008

3.8  3.6 in

Used in embedded systems

PCI Express architecture adapted to vibration-tolerant header connectors.

NLX

Intel 1999

89  1013.6 in

203229  254345 mm

A low-profile design released in 1997. It also incorporated a riser for expansion cards, and never became popular.

UTX

TQ-Components 2001

88  108 mm

Used in embedded systems and IPCs. Requires a baseboard.

WTX

Intel 1998

14  16.75 in

355.6  425.4 mm

A large design for servers and high-end workstations featuring multiple CPUs and hard drives.

XTX

2005

95  114 mm

Used in embedded systems. Requires a baseboard.

Please help improve this article by expanding it. Further information might be found on the talk page. (November 2007)

Graphical comparison of physical sizes

Maximum number of PCI/AGP/PCI-e slots

ATX case compatible:

Spec.

Number

ATX

7

MicroATX

4

FlexATX

3

Mini-DTX/DTX

2

Mini-ITX

1

Visual examples of different form factors

Different form factors

Consider Size When Choosing a Computer Case

Before choosing laptop, you should know not only the notebook battery, but also the size of laptop. It’s important to know well about this, wholesale notebook battery is cheap with good quality. Size may go along with form factor in many respects, but even while considering cases of the same form factor, there can be variations in size in a few respects. Areas where size can vary are in overall dimensions, the number of exposed 5.25″ and 3.5″ bays, and the number of internal bays.

Nowadays, NI-MH rechargeable battery is gradually out of sight. ATX cases obviously need to be large enough to hold an ATX motherboard; some are just large enough, while others seem cavernous in comparison. If a case needs to fit under a low shelf, or between items of a certain width, it is important to choose an appropriately sized case. Cases come in two basic configurations when it comes to their size and shape, either desktop or tower. Desktop cases are wider than they are tall and are oriented so the motherboard lays flat, while tower cases have the motherboard standing upright, and come in three basic heights mini tower, mid tower, and full tower. Tower cases are more common these days, and currently the only style in the Computer Geeks case inventory. If you have a card reader, you can pass information to laptop.

The number of exposed drive bays is generally in direct proportion to the overall size of the case. A higher number of exposed 5.25″ bays may be desirable for those with more than one DVD or CD drive, removable drive racks, and fan controllers. Exposed 3.5″ bays are generally occupied by floppy drives, Zip drives, fan controllers, and things like this 9-in-1 Card Reader, and in most cases you may get one or two of these bays, maximum. This case is very similar in appearance to this other one, but they have one difference that may prove to be a huge factor. They both have four exposed 5.25″ bays, but one has two exposed 3.5″ bays while the other only has one. If a user had a floppy drive and the 9-in-1 card reader, they would either have to choose to install only one, or use an adaptor and take up one of their 5.25″ bays.

Internal bays are generally reserved for hard drives, and systems with multiple drives require the necessary space. So, if a user decided he really wanted a yellow colored case, but needed room for five hard drives, he would be forced to choose this one (5 internal drive bays) over this one (4 internal drive bays).

Gaming PC Cases – Ventilation, Power And Size

Personal computers have grown to many people’s pride and joy. Whether it’s the ability to do whatever they like on it without fear of reduced performance, such as running complex programs or video games, or because their computer looks unique or is a demonstration of what a real gaming PC looks like. There can be many reasons for pride, but they all usually relate to one of three things. The internal components, the software or the external components being superior. The ultimate expression of pride would be to have all three being at their best, but sometimes purchasing gaming PC cases can be a difficult task, as people tend to be unaware of what is needed and are, instead, attracted to the wonderful looks and designs.

Heat Flow

Ventilation is a key aspect of any personal computer case and even more so for a gaming PC. Good ventilation ensures that all of your components are running at optimum efficiency as they’re cooled by whatever cooling system you prefer. Fans are the most common form of cooling and do their job well in combination with on-component heatsinks. To avoid bad ventilation, upgrade older devices like drives that utilize ribbon cables and instead move on to SATA. This is not only more efficient in terms of space, but also provides faster data speeds. For a gaming PC, you should really have a front fan pulling cold air in and a rear fan pulling hot air out. This is a good system and can be upgrade to have more front or rear fans as necessary. Additionally, there should really be space for a high-quality central-processing unit (CPU) fan. These are sometimes very large devices.

Power System

When purchasing a case, they almost always come with a power supply unit (PSU). If they don’t, this can be a benefit, as the supplies are often not on par for gaming rigs. All of your internal components require power and this all adds up when you’re using multiple optical and hard drives as well as one or more high-end graphics cards and high-end CPU. The power supply should be at least 700w for a gaming rig, more for machines with additional graphics cards, as each unit can require over a hundred watts.

Case Size

ATX cases are most common in the personal computer world as they combine size and functionality for the average user. While gaming rigs can fit inside an ATX case, it’s important to note that those wishing for additional drives, such as those in RAID, will want more drive bays. However, with a larger graphics card, space may start to prevent hard disk drives from being installed. To avoid this, you could look for a case that fits your needs and is designed different.

However, for a true gaming case, consider a mid-tower case, which provides a lot more space not only for drives, but for multiple graphics cards, more fans and various other devices. Some cases come with clear panels that are great for LEDs to light up your computer. Additionally, you could also try installed a liquid-cooling system for maximum cooling effect.

There’s No Limit to How Far You Can Customize Your Desktop PC Case!

Pc Cases can come in many sizes and shapes, colors, as well as styles. Many of these customizations are exclusively “bling” although some people produce enhancements in functionality for your Personal computer. Whilst virtually any desktop Desktop case is usually customized, it’s typically a lot more cost-effective to modify a gaming Personal computer case.

Computer gaming has got the potential to generate an enormous quantity of heat. Graphics rendering calls for a enormous amount of resources from the CPU plus the GPU. Moreover, quite a few pc game enthusiasts overclock their particular hardware for more quickly functionality. The risk is that speedier overall performance also will mean greater temperature ranges. Too much warmth may harm your equipment as well as ruin it, so keeping your components cool is a popular grounds for pc case modification.

A lot of custom Computer cases incorporate chilling features within the case. However, it’s often a good idea to find out as much as you can concerning the stock chilling systems for Desktop cases, as stock parts are commonly the cheapest that the manufacturer could uncover. Nearly all Desktop cases arrive with 1 80mm system fan, with more substantial fans running to about 120mm. Far more fans will certainly keep your system cooler, but they will also make your equipment louder. This really is an important concern if you ever plan to get to sleep inside the same room as your laptop or computer and leave it on over night. Personally, I enjoy the sound connected with fans and it truly helps me fall asleep. On the other hand, I’ve met plenty of individuals who can’t endure the noise.

An additional alternative to case fans is to purchase a water-cooled case. These types of cases are usually significantly a lot more expensive, but they’re successful and produce really little sound. They’re also pretty extraordinary to show your pals when you open the case and it appears as though your computer is really a living organism with veins running about.

Visually interesting goods including LED lighting, custom case wraps, fluorescent lighting in addition to cathode tubes are continually joining the marketplace and establishing more and more demand from customers. Nothing at all is quite so neat as turning the lighting off and observing your pc appear as though it really is a futuristic time machine. It really is also a very good method to impress your good friends! These types of new merchandise are gaining popularity, which will generate supply a step forward. This signifies lower rates and improved choices for shoppers.

Now, let us have a look at one of the most important factors to give some thought to when deciding on a gaming Personal computer case.

* Size

* Amount of Bays

* Material (Aluminum, acrylic, or steel)

* Power Supply

* Cooling

Size

You will find 3 sizing categories, and each has subcategories. Towers commonly encase servers. These are massive cases that typically come along with rollers and have at least 10 bays. Only corporate or corporation servers ought to be located within these, as they’re unbelievably more than what an average or even hard-core online gamer would most likely actually need to have. But then again, 10 years ago they said no person would ever need more than 128 MB of Good old ram. Bear in mind those times? Well, even in the event you do not remember, it is true. It really is just not likely you are going to need to have as much room as a tower will be able to offer unless you are managing a server.

The most typical case size may be the mid-tower. These are also essentially the most well-liked. If you ever have a desktop laptop or computer, you likely have a mid-tower. A lot of gamers and typical users will find this size case to be beautifully adequate for all their components as well as long term upgrades. If you don’t want to upgrade much in the future, then three bays should really be enough. But if you happen to be planning to have room to upgrade, purchase a model with 5 bays.

Much like anything else in technological innovation, personal computer cases are steadily getting decreased in size. If home decor is crucial to you, you may look at a micro or mini ATX case. Nevertheless, in case you would rather that your dazzling, bling-bling case be prominent, go on and opt for a larger one. This path will even enable you a lot more flexibility with the sizing of elements and potential improvements. Mini ATX cases call for more compact motherboards, and usually merely contain 1 fan. Furthermore, there is generally only space for 1 DVD or CD drive and one Hard Drive. Small cases appear far more advanced and tasteful, but sacrifice in convenience and overall performance.

Number of Bays

Due to the fact that I covered this previously, I’ll only touch on it lightly once again, since it can be quite important. When getting a customized Computer case, you should think about whether or not you need to have area to enhance it in the near future. Several persons choose to just buy brand new computers often then sell their older ones. Other people opt to purchase a excellent computer system only once every four to five years. No matter what road you decide, it is advisable to understand that you’ll fork out far more for additional bays, but you’ll also likely escape a significant headache or aggravation in the future.

Material (Aluminum, acrylic, or steel)

Almost all Computer cases are made from black-painted steel, along with a plastic faceplate snapped on the front. Even so, if you happen to be likely to obtain a custom made Desktop case, you should think about selecting aluminum or acrylic. Aluminum is considerably lighter in weight when compared with steel, includes a a lot more satisfying aesthetic, and dissipates heat a lot more proficiently.

But if you happen to be wanting to definitely bling out your Pc case, the trendy approach to go is acrylic. Acrylic cases are those see-through models you always notice on display. It can appear really awesome to put several LED lights in your acrylic case with some neon lights along with a water-cooling system, turn out the lights from the area, and look at your futuristic machine. Not just can it make one hell of a nightlight, it should actually make an impression on your friends, and put you in the mood for owning some newbies. It is essential to keep in mind, on the other hand, that acrylic cannot be welded, so these cases are usually screwed or glued to each other. It is best to go with bolted cases in lieu of glued, as glued cases have a tendency to separate from their seams very easily.

Electrical power Supply

Computers need a lot of energy. Particularly in case you use a gaming Pc with extra or expensive components. Just like we have to have air, personal computers need to have energy! Therefore, when picking a power supply, don’t suffocate your computer. Obtain a great electricity supply and the computer’s performance are going to be capable to reach its potential without slowing down.

Apart from just supplying adequate electricity, it is advisable to be certain that the electrical power supply is quality and is not going to fry your costly elements. If you might be on a tight budget, do not think about that when choosing a power supply. Penny-pinch in a different place, since a electrical power supply just isn’t a component you ought to sacrifice quality on.

Cooling

Modern Desktop games max out the abilities of most gaming Computers, which suggests that the elements work hard and become extremely sizzling without having a sufficient cooling system. Fans, heat sinks, and water-cooled systems are a handful of of the means to maintain your device cool whilst playing games.

Fans are the most prevalent type of chilling, and can come in 3 standard sizes: 80 mm, 90 mm and 120mm. Some fans come with LEDs hooked up which offer a super-cool illumination appearance once the fan is spinning. Pairing this with an acrylic case is one particular method to truly make an impression on your buddies.

Liquid-cooled systems are particularly snazzy. They may be pricey, but they produce incredibly successful chilling while creating virtually no noises. Pairing these with an acrylic case as well as some neon lighting is yet another strategy to truly make an impression on your pals.

Conclusion

There are quite a few great choices for shoppers on the market. As increasingly more possibilities become available, price tags will drop and consumers will benefit even more. Soon, pcs will not resemble dull or boring boxes. It will be cheap and affordable to assemble an original, modified machine that matches your tastes, impresses your pals and makes you very pleased to have acquired it.

Let’s start build your own carputer

More at http://www.squidoo.com/car-computer

A car computer (carputer) is an awesome system to install in your car. Not only can a carputer play music and videos, but you can also install navigation software, browse the web, download files, or do anything the PC you’re using can do. However, many people don’t know where to start, or they don’t have the first clue as to what a carputer system consists of.

Here are some general tips and suggestions to get you started on your build.

Most people choose a mini-ITX form factor motherboard. Mini-ITX motherboards come in lots of different configurations; there are some boards for Intel, some for AMD, and some are VIA based. Some boards can handle up to Core 2 Quad core CPU’s, but expect to pay mucho $ $ $ if you want that level of performance.

Popular choices are the VIA C3 and C7 mini-ITX based motherboards, but they are being phased out by the growing popularity of the Intel Atom boards. Intel Atom processors are widely used in netbooks, but their low power requirements and low heat build up make them perfect candidates for carputer usage.

A very popular, best bang for your buck motherboard would be the Intel D945GCLF2, in my opinion. Also, at less than 0 for both the CPU and motherboard, the deal is too good to pass up.

Power Supply:

The easiest, headache free solution is to use an intelligent DC-DC power supply. Intelligent power supplies have integrated startup/shutdown controllers that can sense and power your computer when you turn your car on/off. See how that can get annoying?

This includes, at the bare minimum, a power wire, ground wire, and a remote wire. The remote wire is wired to a 12v source that only becomes active when your key is in the ignition. The most common usage is to use the remote wire from your CD player/head unit, that way, when the CD player turns on, so does the carputer.

As far as brands go, I would go with Opus. While they are a little more expensive than the M2/M3/M4 ATX power supplies, they are of higher quality. I had an older M2 ATX that would only put out 10.9 – 11.4 volts on the 12v rail (not good!). Since then, I replaced it with an Opus 120w and it’s been running strong since 2006. I would use a Pico PSU if you’re extremely cramped for space, like in a glove box build.

Hard Drive and Optical Drive:

2.5″ notebook hard drives are the most popular because they are small, use little power, and are rugged. I’ve been using an old 2.5″ 80GB IDE for at least 3 years now. I’ve dropped the hard drive multiple times and have it mounted pretty badly, but it’s still running strong! 3.5″ hard drives need much more power, and power is precious when we’re talking about small, 90-120 watt power supplies.

Optical drives; who uses optical drives anymore? The only time I used an optical drive was for the initial operating system install. Even still, you could probably get away with installing your OS from a USB flash drive. As for daily use, I guarantee an optical drive would receive almost zero usage. The only thing I can see an optical drive being useful for is to watch DVDs. If you’re driving, do you really think it’s a good idea to watch a movie on the way to work? If you’re stopped, wouldn’t you rather watch the DVD on your big screen in the house? At this point in our technological evolution, optical drives are becoming more and more of a novelty.

I have 1GB in my carputer and it runs pretty quickly on a full Windows XP install (I’ll get to this later). 2GB would be even better, but it’s not really necessary and I doubt you’ll see a speed increase.

Enclosure/Case:

Despite what you may hear or think, a case is completely optional as long as you have your components mounted somewhat securely (meaning they won’t bounce around like crazy while driving). Mini-ITX cases do exist and can be found at stores like Mini-box, MP3car, and Newegg. If you have the space, a slightly larger (but cheaper) micro-ATX case could be used instead.

I’ve been running my setups in the glovebox like this for over three years with zero failures. The CPU temperature settles at around 50-60c depending on the outside temperature. The hard drive is mounted to top of the glove compartment using double sided adhesive. The motherboard and power supply simply sit on a peice of cardboard.

Operating System:

My advice is to run a full version of Windows XP instead of a “custom” XP build such as TinyXP. Drivers are stripped out, services are missing, and in my experience, it’s not the most stable OS either. Do you really want perform advanced troubleshooting for some odd program you want to work? Save yourself the headache and install a full version of Windows XP. Even on just 1GB of memory (2GB seems to be the standard now), XP runs silky smooth.

Then we come to the issue of whether to fully shutdown the computer or to have it hibernate when you turn off the car. Hibernation basically takes all the information present and stores it on the hard drive when the computer is turned off. Then, when the computer is turned on again, the data is restored from the hard drive and you’re back to exactly where you were before you turned the car off. As nice as hibernation sounds, it’s not very reliable in my experience. So, do yourself a favor and fully startup/shutdown for every session. A carputer on a full install of Windows XP doesn’t take long to boot anyways, plus, it saves you a whole lot of headache in the future.

Front End:

Using a front end is completely up to you. The front end is basically a finger friendly program which contains all your media controls, media player, etc. It pretty much makes your carputer look like an Alpine or Pioneer double DIN touchscreen unit. Both are great players, but both have their negatives.

Road Runner is open source (free), but is a pain to setup correctly, and in my opinion, is too cluttered and doesn’t look as good as Centrafuse. Centrafuse, however, is not free, but it’s extremely easy to setup and works great right out of the box.

Customer care services, remote support

Customer care services, remote support

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Customer care services, remote support

By: John Singh Peterson
Posted: May 26, 2011

Consider the motherboard you require, the kind of CPU you are using or whether it is compatible with the motherboard or not. We usually buy CPU and motherboard at a time. Therefore it is very important to note on few factors like if you choose a high speed motherboard, you are required to buy CPU in commensurate with your motherboard taking consideration into few factors like your budget and required space accommodation, and an upgradable one. You should take care of the fact whether extra RAM sockets are available for future use or not. You are just required to be assured if you have put an ATX motherboard into a micro ATX case or not. Motherboards are available with a technical manual with itself. You will find critical information from this manual. The next is to choose the case carefully as they are available in. You can use ATX case or if you want to replenish your PC with “front mounted USB and the fire wire port”, then you have to put RAM in it. You can attach with the SD RAM OR DDR SDRAM that is currently in the pc or you can buy a boat that uses DDR2 or else you can go for a motherboard that supports AGP and thus can keep the current video card there. Secondly, you should be sure of the fact that all the critical information about the motherboard. Try to choose your case carefully as these cases come in 6 different sizes which are slim line, desktop, minitower, tower, cube etc. Apart from removable faces option, another option is a detachable motherboard which is kept in a removable tray or plate generally called as motherboard mount.

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Now if you wish to replace the motherboard, the first thing you were to do is to remove the old one .you need to remove all the cards there. You are just requited to remove everything that might thwart either removal of the previous mother board or the installation of the new one such as hard drives or any kind of floppy drive. In this case the, you can do it in the best way by temporarily returning the screws to the mounting hole unless reinstalling the other components. Sometimes, you need to turn off the power supply enabling admittance to the motherboard. You are then requested to arrange the position of the wires for the speaker and power switch and of course the reset button if you are in need to install them again.

So, the steps to be followed one after another are as follows in a nutshell is mentioned here. First accommodate your motherboard with your case. Check carefully to see whether the holes that are in the motherboard are properly placed with hole of your case or not. After checking the proper placing of the case with the motherboard, you can screw the motherboard into the case.

After preparing the case, the next step is to check the I/O shield attached to your case .you are just required to place it on to the I/O Shield and push it until it protruded a little bit .

The next step is to install the CPU. Of course this process is easy but a delicate one. The first step in this procedure is to unlock the “CPU socket”. Normally it happens that there are a small plastic or a metal arm that are usually placed lied on the side of the CPU socket. In order to unlock it, you are just required pushing it out or else pulling it up.

Now the only thing you need to follow the process of aligning the CPU to the socket. As different processors have their diverse pin layouts, at least one corner will comprises a diagonal section without any pins that are usually attached to it. But this particular corner may be different from the other corner. Your work will be to find the matching corner on your motherboard‘s CPU socket and then carefully lower the CPU and fix into the socket. You are requested not to push hard. The next step is to lock the socket by lowering it down gently. By following this process you will be you will be able to lock your CPU into the motherboard. The next step is to install heat sink fan and kindly attach the power connector with the motherboard fan header nearer to the CPU. Last but not the least, you just need to mount your motherboard in the case after lining it up with the brass standoffs and the I/O plate and begin screwing. Attach power connector to the motherboard header. If you want more information, you can contact to our customer care services on our web site address and our remote support service personnel will help you to clear your question related to the fact.

John Singh Peterson – About the Author:

The author of this article has 10 years experience in computer repair services.

Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/software-articles/customer-care-services-remote-support-4819378.html

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ePathChina.com will teach How to you DIY

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ePathChina.com will teach How to you DIY

By: Steven Jobs
Posted: Jun 08, 2009

How to assemble the computer

—–ePathChina.com will teach you DIY.

In the old days, the basic advice for build for assembling the various parts which make up the PC was simple: Build up the computer bit by bit, checking the computer functioned as expected before continuing to add more devices. The assembly then becomes a long, but simple, process of upgrading:
For example, you would start by setting up the processor, motherboard and PSU, switch it on, and see if it beeped. If everything seemed ok, then you would go on by maybe adding the video card, and then the floppy drive etc. There is still a lot to be said for building the PC in this way. It may take a little longer, but should you make a bad mistake, the chances are that you will only ruin a few pieces of kit.
However, if you have enough confidence in your own ability and the parts themselves, (which are at least initially more reliable than they used to be), you can work the other way around, assembling the whole system at once. You then only have to remove bits one by one should you find a problem when you are done.

1.Read the motherboard manual.

You really, don’t want to fall down on this one. Make a list of all the jumpers which must be set, ready for them to be checked off. Learn the layout of the board. Make sure you know what voltage your CPU will require. Make sure your proposed memory configuration will be acceptable. RTFM. RTFM again.

2.Locate the motherboard fixings

             

—As you take the motherboard from its anti-static bag, remember why it was in there, and try to take care of it!
—Before you get to work on the board, it might be an idea, to make sure it does actually fit your case. In some, ‘baby’ cases it can be a very tight squeeze
—Next locate the holes in the case which you will be screwing the motherboard down to. Do they line up? If they do, will the ISA/PCI slots on the motherboard still line up with the cutaways in the case? At this stage, you may need to drill some more holes. However, remember, not every hole on the motherboard must have a screw, so use your common sense. Modern ATX cases often have the ‘legs’ which the motherboard rests on built into the case as raised bumps – older cases require small hexagonal legs to be installed, (these should come with the case).

3.Setup the motherboard.

                        

—Set all the required jumpers now, while you have access to the whole board. Lay the board out on its anti static bag, or even better some foam. A fine nose pliers can be useful when setting jumpers, but is only really needed on badly designed motherboards, or when the motherboard is already installed. Check and recheck the jumper settings for bus speed, processor speed, clock multiplier and voltages.
—Make sure the CMOS battery jumper is connected, since this is usually left in the off position, for storage. While you are there, check the battery contacts are clean, since a PC with a dodgy clock is a real pain. The CMOS battery is generally a coin sized standard CR2032 (3v) which can be bought quite easily from many high street shops should yours fail at some time in the future. Take reasonable care not to soil the battery contacts with finger prints etc.

—Also at this time, install the main memory boards (and if necessary the level 2 cache memory). Take great care when handling the memory, since these are some of the most static sensitive parts in the computer. Remember to earth yourself to the PC case before you touch any of these items and try not to touch the memory chips themselves or edge connector at any stage. SIMMs can be quite tricky to position correctly, especially if you are unfamiliar with the connection arrangement. Take your time, but make sure that the boards are correctly seated before moving on to the next item to place. DIMMs are comparatively easy to install.
—While you are in an static-aware frame of mind, why not place any extra chips you might need onto your video/sound cards etc? Once this is done you will be able to take a little less care as you handle the rest of the components
—Before inserting a Socket 7 processor, read the instructions on the box of the processor fan.Depending on the type of fan, the clip which holds the fan and heatsink to the processor, may need to be placed on the socket first. Thus, you may need to create a sandwich of, fan/processor/clip before you insert. Anyhow, at this stage, do everything you can to keep the underside of the heatsink, and top of the processor clean, and grease free. They will need to be in as near perfect contact as possible.    
—Insert the processor, taking care not to touch the pins if you can help it. The Socket 7 is called a ZIF socket, this stands for ‘zero insertion force’. Thus to insert the processor, all that is required is to lift the lever on the side of the socket, line the processor up, and then replace the lever, at no stage will you have to push the processor down.
—The Pentium II is connected to the motherboard via Intel’s propriety Slot 1. In this arrangement the processor already comes with a large heatsink and fan. The processor is mounted vertically, which means that it must be held at the sides by some pretty tough plastic supports, these should come with the motherboard, and be installed before anything else, (if they are not already). A fair degree of force is required to insert a PII into the Slot 1, however the most important thing to remember is that the force must be evenly given at each end of the processor, so that the top stays horizontal as it moves down into the slot. —If you have the time you could do worse than to fit and remove some internal cards, into the ISA, PCI and AGP slots to loosen them up a little. This might save the motherboard some stress later on since some edge connectors are very stiff to begin with.

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4.Fix the motherboard into the case.

                                            

—Locate the screws, and spacers, so that the motherboard will be firm, even if placed on it’s side. 
—Make sure that the under side of the motherboard is not shorting on the case at any point. On many tower cases you first secure the board to a side flap which is then folded up into its correct position in the case and secured. ATX cases often allow the entire motherboard and cards to be screwed to a plate outside of the case to be inserted later. If you have a tower case place it onto its side to continue the build process.

5.Connecting the power leads.

                                                

—With the PSU OFF (PSU’s internal fan NOT running!) it is time to wire the motherboard for power. Firstly locate the PSU leads. There should be a mess of them sticking out the end of the power supply. There will be groups of coloured leads with three different types of connectors. The motherboard is powered by two leads with 6 wires, or a single large connector. The other devices in the computer, are all powered by leads of 4 coloured wires, a with large or small connector depending on the device.
—Firstly connect the motherboard leads. On an AT motherboard the connectors should be positioned so that the black wires on each lead are next to each other, when fitted into the motherboard. ATX motherboards have only a single large connector.

—Next, connect the processor fan’s lead. In a Socket 7 motherboard this will be a short lead which connects to one of the larger 4 wire general purpose power leads, and provides a continuation of

MCE Media Center Edition

Asus made boards for HP, Hewlett Packard, and Compaq computers, as the OEM, or Original Equipment Manufacturing. Initial board testing is done on my Test Tables without a case, and as shown, using a parted out front panel button that is removed from Compaq Deskpros I bought long ago, Any old computer you toss can serve for a connector on a future motherboard, so think about these Reusable tips. Here I give some cross-reference specs one can use if looking for well equipped MCE PC boards, most generic ones fit non-ATX casings

ePathChina.com will teach How to you DIY

How to assemble the computer

—–ePathChina.com will teach you DIY.

In the old days, the basic advice for build for assembling the various parts which make up the PC was simple: Build up the computer bit by bit, checking the computer functioned as expected before continuing to add more devices. The assembly then becomes a long, but simple, process of upgrading:
For example, you would start by setting up the processor, motherboard and PSU, switch it on, and see if it beeped. If everything seemed ok, then you would go on by maybe adding the video card, and then the floppy drive etc. There is still a lot to be said for building the PC in this way. It may take a little longer, but should you make a bad mistake, the chances are that you will only ruin a few pieces of kit.
However, if you have enough confidence in your own ability and the parts themselves, (which are at least initially more reliable than they used to be), you can work the other way around, assembling the whole system at once. You then only have to remove bits one by one should you find a problem when you are done.

1.Read the motherboard manual.

You really, don’t want to fall down on this one. Make a list of all the jumpers which must be set, ready for them to be checked off. Learn the layout of the board. Make sure you know what voltage your CPU will require. Make sure your proposed memory configuration will be acceptable. RTFM. RTFM again.

2.Locate the motherboard fixings

             

—As you take the motherboard from its anti-static bag, remember why it was in there, and try to take care of it!
—Before you get to work on the board, it might be an idea, to make sure it does actually fit your case. In some, ‘baby’ cases it can be a very tight squeeze
—Next locate the holes in the case which you will be screwing the motherboard down to. Do they line up? If they do, will the ISA/PCI slots on the motherboard still line up with the cutaways in the case? At this stage, you may need to drill some more holes. However, remember, not every hole on the motherboard must have a screw, so use your common sense. Modern ATX cases often have the ‘legs’ which the motherboard rests on built into the case as raised bumps – older cases require small hexagonal legs to be installed, (these should come with the case).

3.Setup the motherboard.

                        

—Set all the required jumpers now, while you have access to the whole board. Lay the board out on its anti static bag, or even better some foam. A fine nose pliers can be useful when setting jumpers, but is only really needed on badly designed motherboards, or when the motherboard is already installed. Check and recheck the jumper settings for bus speed, processor speed, clock multiplier and voltages.
—Make sure the CMOS battery jumper is connected, since this is usually left in the off position, for storage. While you are there, check the battery contacts are clean, since a PC with a dodgy clock is a real pain. The CMOS battery is generally a coin sized standard CR2032 (3v) which can be bought quite easily from many high street shops should yours fail at some time in the future. Take reasonable care not to soil the battery contacts with finger prints etc.

—Also at this time, install the main memory boards (and if necessary the level 2 cache memory). Take great care when handling the memory, since these are some of the most static sensitive parts in the computer. Remember to earth yourself to the PC case before you touch any of these items and try not to touch the memory chips themselves or edge connector at any stage. SIMMs can be quite tricky to position correctly, especially if you are unfamiliar with the connection arrangement. Take your time, but make sure that the boards are correctly seated before moving on to the next item to place. DIMMs are comparatively easy to install.
—While you are in an static-aware frame of mind, why not place any extra chips you might need onto your video/sound cards etc? Once this is done you will be able to take a little less care as you handle the rest of the components
—Before inserting a Socket 7 processor, read the instructions on the box of the processor fan.Depending on the type of fan, the clip which holds the fan and heatsink to the processor, may need to be placed on the socket first. Thus, you may need to create a sandwich of, fan/processor/clip before you insert. Anyhow, at this stage, do everything you can to keep the underside of the heatsink, and top of the processor clean, and grease free. They will need to be in as near perfect contact as possible.    
—Insert the processor, taking care not to touch the pins if you can help it. The Socket 7 is called a ZIF socket, this stands for ‘zero insertion force’. Thus to insert the processor, all that is required is to lift the lever on the side of the socket, line the processor up, and then replace the lever, at no stage will you have to push the processor down.
—The Pentium II is connected to the motherboard via Intel’s propriety Slot 1. In this arrangement the processor already comes with a large heatsink and fan. The processor is mounted vertically, which means that it must be held at the sides by some pretty tough plastic supports, these should come with the motherboard, and be installed before anything else, (if they are not already). A fair degree of force is required to insert a PII into the Slot 1, however the most important thing to remember is that the force must be evenly given at each end of the processor, so that the top stays horizontal as it moves down into the slot. —If you have the time you could do worse than to fit and remove some internal cards, into the ISA, PCI and AGP slots to loosen them up a little. This might save the motherboard some stress later on since some edge connectors are very stiff to begin with.

4.Fix the motherboard into the case.

                                            

—Locate the screws, and spacers, so that the motherboard will be firm, even if placed on it’s side. 
—Make sure that the under side of the motherboard is not shorting on the case at any point. On many tower cases you first secure the board to a side flap which is then folded up into its correct position in the case and secured. ATX cases often allow the entire motherboard and cards to be screwed to a plate outside of the case to be inserted later. If you have a tower case place it onto its side to continue the build process.

5.Connecting the power leads.

                                                

—With the PSU OFF (PSU’s internal fan NOT running!) it is time to wire the motherboard for power. Firstly locate the PSU leads. There should be a mess of them sticking out the end of the power supply. There will be groups of coloured leads with three different types of connectors. The motherboard is powered by two leads with 6 wires, or a single large connector. The other devices in the computer, are all powered by leads of 4 coloured wires, a with large or small connector depending on the device.
—Firstly connect the motherboard leads. On an AT motherboard the connectors should be positioned so that the black wires on each lead are next to each other, when fitted into the motherboard. ATX motherboards have only a single large connector.

—Next, connect the processor fan’s lead. In a Socket 7 motherboard this will be a short lead which connects to one of the larger 4 wire general purpose power leads, and provides a continuation of that lead to power one of the other internal devices. If you do not connect the free end to any other device, make certain the lead will not fall into contact with the Heatsink or Fan. In a Pentium II board the PII fan will have a short lead which should be attached to a small power socket on the motherboard nearby.               
—Fit the other power leads, as you fit the other internal devices. The floppy disk drive will require the smaller type of connector. Other devices such as Hard disks and CDRoms will require the larger type of general power lead.
—Do not be confused by leads which appear to have more than 4 wires to their connector, these are merely where a power lead has been doubled up, by adding a second connector in parallel to the first. [Usually this extra is of the smaller type
—Unused leads are merely left, out of harms way. In the process of fitting and refitting, the connectors can become misshapen, if this occurs, use the fine nosed pliers to bend the internal pins into proper points.
—Finally, using the motherboard manual, and some common sense, fit the case’s LED leads to the correct positions on the motherboard. If there is a ‘turbo’ lead, then you will not find a space for it, since Pentium motherboards do not have this function. You might like to fiddle around until you can connect it to a second HD.

6.Fit the internal cards.

—How many cards you decide to fit at this stage is up to you. A bare minimum would seem to be sensible. Fit the video card, and I/O card, if you need one.—All other cards may be fitted as ‘upgrades’, which you should be very familiar with doing already.
—Fit the serial and parallel port leads onto the motherboard, or I/O card if necessary, and make sure you use the holes provided in the case, rather than take up an ISA slot

Computer Cooling

Causes of heat build up

The amount of heat generated by an integrated circuit (e.g., a CPU or GPU), the prime cause of heat build up in modern computers, is a function of the efficiency of its design, the technology used in its construction and the frequency and voltage at which it operates.

The dust on the laptop CPU heat sink after three years of use has made the laptop unusable due to frequent thermal shutdowns.

In operation, the temperature levels of a computer’s components will rise until the temperature gradient between the computer parts and their surroundings is such that the rate at which heat is lost to the surroundings is equal to the rate at which heat is being produced by the electronic component, and thus the temperature of the component reaches equilibrium.

For reliable operation, the equilibrium temperature must be sufficiently low for the structure of the computer’s circuits to survive.

Additionally, the normal operation of cooling methods can be hindered by other causes, such as:

Dust acting as a thermal insulator and impeding airflow, thereby reducing heat sink and fan performance.

Poor airflow including turbulence due to friction against impeding components, or improper orientation of fans, can reduce the amount of air flowing through a case and even create localised whirlpools of hot air in the case.

Poor heat transfer due to a lack or poor application of thermal compounds.

Damage prevention

It is common practice to include thermal sensors in the design of certain computer parts, e.g. CPUs and GPUs, along with internal logic that shuts down the computer if reasonable bounds are exceeded. It is, however, unwise to rely on such preventative measures, as it is not universally implemented, and may not prevent repeated incidents from permanently damaging the integrated circuit.

The design of an integrated circuit may also incorporate features to shut down parts of the circuit when it is idling, or to scale back the clock speed under low workloads or high temperatures, with the goal of reducing both power use and heat generation.

System cooling

Fan from Papst for racks.

Air cooling

Further information: Computer fan

While any method used to move air around or to computer enclosures would count as air cooling, fans are by far the most commonly used implement for accomplishing that task. The term computer fan usually refers to fans attached to computer enclosures, but may also be intended to signify any other computer fan, such as a CPU fan, GPU fan, a chipset fan, PSU fan, HDD fan, or PCI slot fans. Common fan sizes include 40, 60, 80, 92, 120, and 140 mm. Recently, 200mm fans have begun to creep into the performance market, as well as even larger sizes such as 230 and 240mm.

In desktops

Typical airflow through a desktop ATX case.

Desktop computers typically use one or more fans for heat management. Almost all desktop power supplies have at least one fan to exhaust air from the case. Most manufacturers recommend bringing cool, fresh air in at the bottom front of the case, and exhausting warm air from the top rear.

If there is more air being forced into the system than being pumped out (due to an imbalance in the number of fans), this is referred to as a “positive” airflow, as the pressure inside the unit would be higher than outside. A balanced or neutral airflow is the most efficient[citation needed], although a slightly positive airflow results in less dust build up if dust filters are used. Negative pressure inside the case can create problems such as clogged optical drives due to sucking in air (and dust).

In high density computing

Data centers typically contain many racks of flat 1U servers. Air is drawn in at the front of the rack and exhausted at the rear. Because data centers typically contain such large numbers of computers and other power-consuming devices, they risk overheating of the various components if no additional measures are taken. Thus, extensive HVAC systems are used. Often a raised floor is used so the area under the floor may be used as a large plenum for cooled air and power cabling.

Another way of accommodating large numbers of systems in a small space are blade chassis. In contrast to the horizontal orientation of flat servers, blade chassis are often oriented vertically. This vertical orientation facilitates convection. When the air is heated by the hot components, it tends to flow to the top on its own, creating a natural air flow along the boards. This stack effect can help to achieve the desired air flow and cooling. Some manufacturers expressly take advantage of this effect.

In laptop computing

Most laptops use air cooling in order to keep the CPU and other components within their operating temperature range. Because the air is fan forced through a small port, it can clog the fan and heatsinks with dust or be obstructed by objects placed near the port. This can cause overheating, and can be a cause of component failure in laptops. The severity of this problem varies with laptop design, its use and power dissipation. With recent reductions in CPU power dissipation, this problem can be anticipated to reduce in severity.

Liquid submersion cooling

An uncommon practice is to submerse the computer’s components in a thermally conductive liquid. Personal computers that are cooled in this manner do not generally require any fans or pumps, and may be cooled exclusively by passive heat exchange between the computer’s parts, the cooling fluid and the ambient air. Extreme density computers such as the Cray-2 may use additional radiators in order to facilitate heat exchange.

The liquid used must have sufficiently low electrical conductivity in order for it not to interfere with the normal operation of the computer’s components. If the liquid is somewhat electrically conductive, it may be necessary to insulate certain parts of components susceptible to electromagnetic interference, such as the CPU. For these reasons, it is preferred that the liquid be dielectric.

Liquids commonly used in this manner include various liquids invented and manufactured for this purpose by 3M, such as Fluorinert. Various oils, including but not limited to cooking, motor and silicone oils have all been successfully used for cooling personal computers.

Evaporation can pose a problem, and the liquid may require either to be regularly refilled or sealed inside the computer’s enclosure. Liquid may also slowly seep into and damage components, particularly capacitors, causing an initially functional computer to fail after hours or days immersed.

Waste heat reduction

Where full-power, full-featured modern computers are not required, some companies opt to use less powerful computers or computers with fewer features. For example: in an office setting, the IT department may choose a thin client or a diskless workstation thus cutting out the heat-laden components such as hard drives and optical disks. These devices are also often powered with direct current from an external power supply brick which still wastes heat, but not inside the computer itself.

The components used can greatly affect the power consumption and hence waste heat. A VIA EPIA motherboard with CPU typically generates approximately 25 watts of heat whereas a Pentium 4 motherboard typically generates around 140 watts. While the former has considerably less computing power, both types are adequate and responsive for tasks such as word processing and spreadsheets. Choosing a LCD monitor rather than a CRT can also reduce power consumption and excess room heat, as well as the added benefit of increasing available physical desk space.

Conductive and radiative cooling

Some laptop components, such as hard drives and optical drives, are commonly cooled by having them make contact with the computer’s frame, increasing the surface area which can radiate and otherwise exchange heat.

Spot cooling

In addition to system cooling, various individual components usually have their own cooling systems in place. Components which are individually cooled include, but are not limited to, the CPU, GPU and the Northbridge chip. Some cooling solutions employ one or more methods of cooling, and may also utilize logic and/or temperature sensors in order to vary the power used in active cooling components.

Passive heat sink cooling

Passive heatsink fitted on a Intel GMA graphics chip

Passive heat sink cooling involves attaching a block of machined or extruded metal to the part that needs cooling. A thermal adhesive may be used, or more commonly for a personal computer CPU, a clamp is used to affix the heat sink right over the chip, with a thermal grease or pad spread between. This block usually has fins and ridges to increase its surface area. The heat conductivity of metal is much better than that of air, and its ability to radiate heat is better than that of the component part it is protecting (usually an integrated circuit or CPU). Until recently, fan cooled aluminium heat sinks were the norm for desktop computers. Today many heat sinks feature copper base-plates or are entirely made of copper, and mount fans of considerable size and power.

Heat sinks tend to get less effective with time due to the build up of dust between their metal fins, which reduces the efficiency with which the heat sink transfers heat to the ambient air. Dust build up can be countered with a gas duster by blowing away the dust along with any other unwanted excess material.

Powering on the Computer With Your Mouse ? Computer Tips And Tricks

Here’s the method by which you can start your computer by clicking your mouse button.

If you have ATX Main Board, ATX case Award Bios, or any Bios that supports PS/2 Mouse Power On, then you can power on your computer with a double click.

To activate this feature:

Restart your computer

Then press Del when the BIOS message appears to enter your CMOS configuration Select Integrated Peripherals from main menu
If PS/2 mouse power on disabled, activate it by press page up/ page down key it will became Double-Click
Press Esc key to exit
Press F10 to save and exit Power off your PC
Now double-click the left mouse button,.. Your PC will turn on

For More Tips And Tricks Click Here

What is ATX:

ATX (Advanced Technology Extended) is a computer form factor designed by Intel in 1995. It was the first big change in computer case, motherboard …

An industry-wide specification for a desktop computer’s motherboard. ATX improves the motherboard design by taking the small AT motherboard …

This doesn’t stand for anything that I could find. It is a very popular specification for motherboards in computing. It was designed to take the older AT motherboards, often referred to as “Baby AT” (an earlier standard) and rotating it 90 degrees to allow for more available space for add-in cards.

ATX, Inc. A newly formed Pennsylvania corporation for the purpose of fulfilling the software required for on-line registration.

What is Main Board:

A motherboard is the central printed circuit board (PCB) in some complex electronic systems, such as modern personal computers. …

If the CPU is the heart of the computer, this is the central nervous system. It connects everything together and tells your heart (CPU) how to run

Current Use, Functionality & Demand for microATX Motherboards

For microATX motherboards, the maximum size would be 244mm by 244mm. In some microATX boards, they are about 171.45mm by 171.45mm. For ATX size, the standard is actually longer by 25% – around 305mm by 244mm.

Popular microATX motherboards these days are capable of supporting CPUs like:

? AMD
? Intel
? VIA

Characteristics of microATX include backward-compatibility and expandability. When it comes to backward-compatibility, mounting points of this motherboard standards follow a subset of those that are being used on full-sized ATX boards as well as having an I/O panel that are identical.

These microATX motherboards can also be used in full-sized ATX cases. They also use the same power connectors just like ATX motherboards. This enables the use of full-sized ATX power supplies having microATX boards. These boards also use the same chipsets like that of full-sized ATX boards. This enables them to utilize most of the same components. The only problem would be the fact that since microATX cases are a bit smaller than ATX cases, only a few expansion slots are available.

In terms of expandability, modern ATX motherboards feature 5 or more PCI-Express or PCI expansion slots. This is while microATX boards usually have only 4 slots. To conserve expansion slots as well as case space, what most manufacturers do is they produce microATX motherboards having a full-range of integrated graphics and integrated peripherals. These will serve as a basis for media center PCs and small form factor PCs.

MicroATX Limitations

Due to reductions in drive bays, there are modern limitations in microATX cases. Current southbridges are capable of supporting 6 SATA devices and 4 legacy IDE devices. A full range of connectors found in microATX devices can be fully exploited if it is mounted on an ATX case.

There are also microATX cases that use low profile PCI cards as well as power supplies having non-standard dimensions.

Having second thoughts if these microATX motherboards are still capable of doing the job?

Wit the release of Intel’s Core 2 and Quad Core processors, the desktop market are now divided. Those who are on a tight budget would settle for an AMD Athlon 64 X2. For those who want the perks of the latest models, Quad Core or Core 2 processors are the most likely options.

For Intel’s low cost processors, microATX motherboards are still used. These are still good for business PCs and for home theater PCs.

LF Cooling Spec of a Micro ATX

I have never tried to do the water cooling. So I need your help in this matter. My Graphics processing unit is becoming warm and sometimes even hot. And the other thing is that my CPU is no slouch in dumping out heat. Now all I want to do is try water cooling to keep the GPU cool. So, please help me and suggest me what to do for that specific changes.??

LF Cooling Spec of a Micro ATX

Instead of trying for the water cooling you can also go for the Vulcan. It is a gaming box format Micro-ATX. This box gaming format Micro-ATX is designed to simplify transport (LAN Party) with a large handle on top. The masculine design with sharp lines give it a particular style that we like or not. On balance, it has a weight of 5.8 kg with dimensions mm 180×422.5×406 it supports graphics cards with a length of 350mm and allows 2 units and 4 units 5.25 3.5 2-inch external. Cooling is provided by two 120mm fans and the presence of two potentiometers (8 watts). Finally it has gland, two ports for the operation of a liquid cooling device and a space at the bottom of the box to install the power supply.

LF Cooling Spec of a Micro ATX

I think not too fan is above zero. Skip proc fan in a box ventilated, yes (or good downclockant radiator), but in an unventilated cabinet I do not recall ever seeing it. And then there is the problem of power supply ‘: even the 150 or 200 watts need a small fan, there really is a thing that sixty watt ITX boards that are exceptions to this rule. Now it not mean that it will be noisy. There’s probably way to have the iMac’s fans just turning very gently, just a soundproof box, etc.

LF Cooling Spec of a Micro ATX

You can also buy a new Micro-ATX Case. One I know is the Sharkoon Temptation is being recently added a new PC case. Designed for Micro-ATX motherboards, it features two external 5.25 “slots for optical drives, a location for a possible 3.5-inch floppy disc, four slots for 3.5 inch internal hard drives and four slots in the rear for expansion cards of the motherboard. In front, there are two USB 2.0 ports, one eSATA port and audio jacks classic. For heat dissipation, can install two turbines of 12 centimeters at the front and side, and a liquid cooling system (water cooling), two openings in the back having been made for this purpose.

I would like to tell you that purchasing a new Micro-ATX Case will be better for you.!! It will be useful because of the following features :
Format HTPC
Design Aluminium
Compatibility with Micro-ATX motherboards
2 external 5.25 “slots
A 3.5-inch external location
4-slot 3.5 inch internal
4 openings for expansion cards of the motherboard
2 openings for a liquid cooling system
Dimensions: 245 x 310 x 445 mm
Net weight: 4.8 kg
Finish: Black

Yes there are very good MicroATX form factor motherboards for o / c. I advise you especially the ASUS P5E-VM Hdmi. By cons for choosing the box, I found the mini P180 expensive, seedy, and too big for a MicroATX form factor box. The case reference “gamers” facelift and is back in a sumptuous colored version of NVIDIA. Look great, unusual features, outstanding performance … the Cooler Master Stacker 830 Evo, in its “special edition” NVIDIA represents a premium solution for gamers and muscular configurations. The following are the Key features :
Modular PFC 850W Power Supply ATX 12V v2.3/EPS
Front door opened to the right or left
Easy assembly without tools
Unique screwless mounting fans
Sturdy aluminum
Motherboard support: E-ATX, ATX, m-ATXUp to 9 fans
Flexible configuration and adjustable
Rugged and reliable

Best Features of The Micro ATX

The Micro ATX, also known as the mATX, is called the standard of mother boards, and was introduced in 1997. Some mATX mother boards are as small as 6.75 inches x 6.74 inches (171.45 mm x 171.45 mm), while the maximum size can reach 9.6 x 9.6 inches (244 x 244 mm). Here are the other well-known features of the Micro ATX.
Designed to Suit New Market Trends

The Micro ATX is designed by Intel, and was designed to suit new fast-changing market trends and technology advancements. The mATX mother board can be used in complete ATX boards, because the I/O panel is quite the same, and both micro and ATX mother boards utilize the same power connectors. As a result, a full-sized ATX’s power supply can be used by the Micro ATX. And since both mother boards have the same chipsets, they use much of the same components.

Suitable for Use Where Less Than Four Expansion Slots are Needed

The Micro ATX mother board is very suitable for use where less than 4 expansion slots are required. The mATX answers the needs of consumers who are looking for cheaper solutions for their computer systems, and since it has a much smaller mother board, the expenses associated with the entire system are considerably lessened. The mATX also adds a lot of useful features in one bundle. It includes LAN connection, stereo sound, USB and other helpful elements. This lessens the time, hassle and expense of buying other expensive components separately.

Compatibility and Expandability

The Micro ATX was designed and manufactured to offer full compatibility, which means that an ATX board can be used on a full-scale ATX case. A Micro ATX mother board also has power connectors that are identical to those utilized by ATX boards. This allows for full use of ATX power. The mATX can also fully support half a dozen SATA devices, as well as up to 4 Legacy IDE devices.

Installing the Micro ATX

To install the mATX, secure the board’s rise pins to the computer case. A user guide will specify where the pins should go. Next, put the mother board inside the case, and insert and fasten each riser pins. After carefully fastening the pins, hook up the computer case power, and reconnect the hard disk and other connectors.

INTRODUCTION TO COMPUTER ENGINEERING

Introduction to Hardware Engineering
A Practical Study Guide
Module 2
Prepared by:AGABI FRIDAY
Computer Science and Engineering Department
This Study guide is organized into three Chapters:
Chapter One: Computer Hardware Identification
Chapter Two: Computer System Assembly
Chapter Three: Computer System Troubleshooting and Maintenance
Chapter One
Computer Hardware Identification
A computer system contains the following components/devices:
Tower or Desktop case
Motherboard
Processor
Memory
Graphics Card
Sound Card
Modem & NIC
Floppy Disk
Hard Disk
CD-ROM / DVD ROM
PC Speakers
Monitor
Optional Extras
CD-Writer
ZIP Drive
TV-Card
A desktop or tower case is required to hold all your components together. It is your personal preference on which one
you decide choose. The desktop or tower cases come two in form factor AT and ATX. Nearly all the cases made
nowadays are ATX as the motherboard manufacturers make majority of their motherboard in the ATX form.
ATX Tower Casing
Motherboard
A motherboard is a Printed Circuit Board (PCB) that connects your processor, memory and all your expansion cards
together to assemble a PC.
The processor
The processor also known as CPU (Central Processing Unit) is the brain of a computer.
Memory
Memory is the name given to silicon chips that stores volatile computer data. Volatile means that the contents of
memory will be lost if the power of the computer is switched off.
Graphics card
Graphics card provides display output to your monitor. Your graphic device will most likely come on your motherboard.
Sound card
If you require sound for your PC then you will need a sound card. Sound controllers also come with system board
nowadays.
Modem
Modem stands for Modulator Demodulator. It converts digital signals to analogue so that it can travel via your
telephone line, and vice-versa. A modem is an essential item if you are intending to connect your PC to the internet
using dial-up access. It is also on the board of most computers.
Ethernet Cards
Ethernet cards are usually purchased separately from a computer, although many computers (such as the Macintosh)
now include an option for a pre-installed Ethernet card.
FDD
You need a FDD to access floppy disks.
Hard disk drive
Hard disk drive stores all your data including operating system, applications, user files and documents.
CD-ROM drive
Nearly all operating systems and applications software comes on CD. It is therefore essential to have a CD-ROM drive
for installing your applications.
PC speakers
Monitors
CD Writer / DVD Writer
CD Writer / DVD Writer is a very good option for a backup device.
ZIP drive
If you need to transfer large files from one PC to another, you will find floppy disks quite useless due to their limited
storage capacity. A ZIP drive could be your answer as ZIP disks can store 100 or 250 MB depending on which model
you choose.
TV card
A TV card gives you the option of watching TV on your monitor.
Chapter Two
A STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE TO COMPUTER SYSTEM ASSEMBLY
If you are thinking of building your own PC, or need practical information about PC hardware or software, you have
come to the right place. With easy to follow step by step guide combined with many images even a beginner can build,
configure and setup their own PC.
This section gives you an opportunity to learn more about Personal Computer hardware and software. We provide
clear easy to follow step by step instructions on how to build your own PC, according to your own specification. By
building your own PC you get exactly what you need and can save yourself allot of money compared to buying a new
manufactured PC.
At the end of the guide you will have a fully functional PC that should hopefully meet your individual needs. We also
provide advice and instructions on installing a specific hardware, this can be useful if you already have a PC and want
to upgrade or add certain hardware.
The information is placed under appropriate category. The Hardware section provides information about all the
required PC hardware such as motherboard, CPU, memory etc. It provides guidance to help you decide which
hardware is suitable for your needs. Our illustrated step by step guide shows you how to assemble a PC from scratch.
The software section shows you how to setup a new hard disk using appropriate software, so it’s ready for installing an
operating system. Installation guide for Windows XP is provided so that your system is up and running quickly and
smoothly. If you encounter any problems the troubleshooting section should take care of things. So what are you
waiting for, start building a PC today.
Hardware Information
To build your PC from scratch you will need to purchase all the necessary hardware. The first thing you must consider
before you start to shop around for your PC hardware is the specification of the hardware. You should think about what
you are going to use your PC for, before buying fancy expensive hardware. Otherwise you will end up buying hardware
which offers advance features that may not be necessary for your needs and end up wasting your money. For
example, you may be using your PC for word-processing, spreadsheet and browsing the web. You would not gain
much benefit by purchasing an advance 3D graphics card or having a top of the range processor. A simple graphics
card and a mid-range processor will satisfy your needs.
Below is a list of all the hardware required to build your system except the obvious requirement, keyboard and mouse.
The purpose of each is hardware is explained along with some guidance to help you choose your hardware. Select the
required hardware for more information.
Tower or Desktop case
Motherboard
Processor
Memory
Graphics Card
Sound Card
Modem
Floppy Disk
Hard Disk
CD-ROM / DVD ROM
PC Speakers
Monitor
Optional Extras
CD-Writer
ZIP Drive
TV-Card
Desktop or Tower Case
A desktop or tower case is required to hold all your components together. It is your personal preference on which one you decide choose. The desktop
or tower cases come two in form factor AT and ATX. Nearly all the cases made nowadays are ATX as the motherboard manufacturers make majority of
their motherboard in the ATX form. All cases come with PSU (Power Supply Unit), space to mount your FDD, CD-ROM, HDD etc. The case that I would
be using for demonstration is an ATX Midi Tower case as shown below.
Motherboard
A motherboard is a Printed Circuit Board (PCB) that connects your processor, memory and all your expansion cards
together to assemble a PC. Most motherboards made nowadays are ATX. An ATX motherboard has the standard I/O
(Input/Output) connectors such as PS/2 ports, parallel ports, serial ports, etc, built onto the motherboard. Old AT
motherboard on the other hand uses I/O cards and cables which needs to be plugged into the motherboard, which gets
a bit untidy. AT motherboard requires AT keyboard and AT power supply. ATX motherboard fits into an ATX case and
comes with an ATX power supply. The following is a pictures of an ATX motherboard.
As you have seen from the enlarged image, the motherboard comes with various expansion card slots and connectors.
It comes with 3 different expansion slots, 1 AGP, 5 PCI and 1 ISA slot. The AGP (Accelerated Graphics Port) is where
you would connect and AGP graphics card. The PCI slots is where you would connect cards such as sound card,
modem, tv card etc. The ISA slot is quite an old type of bus which is handy if you got some old hardware such as an
old ISA modem or sound card. The other connectors includes the Intel socket 370 CPU connector, the DIMM slot for
SDRAM, IDE connector for connecting your HDD, CD-ROM or other IDE devices, and FDD connector.
The processor
The processor also known as CPU (Central Processing Unit) is the brain of a computer. The faster the processor, the faster it will execute
instructions and run your programs. The leading CPU manufactures are Intel and AMD. Whichever manufacturer you decide to choose you will
have to make sure that you purchase a compatible motherboard.
Before buying your CPU consider what the system is going to be used for. If you are going to use your system for word-processing, browsing
the web or other basic tasks, it may be sufficient for you to use an Intel Celeron or an AMD Duron processor, both of which are available at a
very competitive price.
If the system is going to be used for spreadsheet, databases, graphics and playing advance games then you should consider an Intel Pentium
4 / Pentium D or an AMD Athlon 64 / Athlon 64 X2 processor. Pentium D and Athlon 64 X2 are both Dual Core. Which means they have two
CPU in one Chip. They are also 64 Bit and will support the new Windows Vista Operating System. These processors are very fast and are
capable of handling most of your computing needs. For building our demonstration PC we will be using an Intel Pentium III 866Mhz Socket 370
processor, as shown on the following image.
Memory
he name given to silicon chips that stores volatile computer data. Volatile means that the contents of memory will be lost if the power of the
switched off. Memory stores some of your operating system and application data while it is being run. The more memory you have in your
more application you can run

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